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setz

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Posts posted by setz


  1. Thank you all. I am modeling in a modern version of FZ and then  exporting hidden line out as dxf back to V6 for drawings.  While it is difficult and tedious to work this way it would be more difficult or impossible to create the drawings in the style I am accustomed to in V9’s Layout, particularly in editing and customizing dimensions.  I will check out parallels for the time capsule technique.


  2. Yes, the max number of teeth is limited to 100.

    These sites allow you to create and export aligned pairs of gears:

    Costs $2.00 for a day's worth of downloads:   https://geargenerator.com/#300,300,100,6,0,0,0,2,1,20,3.3333333333333335,6,20,-90,0,0,0,0,0,0,66,11,6,20,-90,0,0,0,0,0,0,3,798

    Images only but also offers a $28 Windows based software:    https://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html

     

    The one I use is:    http://www.hessmer.org/gears/InvoluteSpurGearBuilder.html

    It offers Free downloads as .SVG which can be imported into Adobe Illustrator and then exported to FZ.  Imports are polygonal so I usually rebuild one tooth as nurbs and copy rotate for creating smooth solids which are then exported as .stp for CNC.

     


  3. Sometimes it’s just easier to move an object to the origin and Cartesian to work on. It is possible to work at weird angles using custom reference planes but great care is required when doing this. The “three point align” script was invaluable at aiding in building skewed objects by moving them to origin and then back into position. Would love to have it back working again or have it incorporated as a proper tool.  A righteous Development Team project?


  4. Option 3:  Draw a line snapping to points and extrude up (perpendicular to plane) to create a surface.  Use the Section Tool to first click on the object and then click on the surface (cutting plane).  Reshape.  Boole Union two pieces back together.

    1476037084_ScreenShot2021-03-07at4_28_25PM.jpg.433ab9de17fbe68a5810e78ada618c6a.jpg

    Option 4:  Use Vector line tool to draw a concurrent shape over the face you want to reshape.  Extrude up or down and Boole Difference this object from first.  Reshape depression/extension to desired position.

    1548318287_ScreenShot2021-03-07at4_25.12PMcopy.jpg.39f70505a528e0d649875d5c7130fbdd.jpg


  5. There are a lot of different ways of accomplishing the the same end results in FZ.  As you become more familiar with the program, you will find that if one tool is not giving you the desired result, there will almost always be multiple other options for achieving your goal.  

     

    Option 1:  Draw a line between the two points with Insert option turned off and snapping to points turned on.  Select Imprint Tool and click on line segment then on object.  Reshape.

    Option 2:  Select Insert Segment Tool.  Draw line segment snapping to points.  Reshape.

     

    Snapping / Stick to Edges is not required, but it does make working faster and more efficient.  It is located in the Snaps Palette under the Palettes Menu.  If you select this option and then save your preferences it will be remembered for future projects.

    Snapping to Endpoint was added in V9 and has similar functionality to Snap to Point used in conjunction w/ Stick to Edges.

    1241337177_ScreenShot2021-03-07at4_02_57PM.jpg.c2e55356dd4fca92fb4f6443f6240f9a.jpg


  6. Simbio, this was a tricky transition for me as well.  Low poly count is very important in my workflow.  I made a template file with various predefined settings, and while they don't  solve for your specific request, they are useful in getting polycounts down.  The problem I was having was that on objects with both very large and very small radiuses the poly count would be inefficient; these presets keep counts low for these types of objects.

    Attached is a copy of the file with the presets.  They are listed as ".05"  - ".00002" which represents the size of a poly in relation to the size of the object.  Each preset roughly doubles the resolution.  .05 is very coarse -  .00002 is quite fine.  Make sure that your Project Settings/Working Units allow for FZ to have "Number of Decimal Places" be at least 6 for the finer presets to function correctly.

    You can easily add these to any file (including your Template File) by clicking on the folder button shown in the screen grab.1313794686_ScreenShot2021-02-22at4_32_36PM.jpg.2ec612bf7e75aa481689da235e201b2e.jpg

    Hope this helps.

    Resolution Presets.fmz


  7. Try exporting out of rhino using the .stp format. Especially for solids stp is usually the best way to go and the surfaces will be identical to the ones in rhino.

    If not, you can try cleaning up the curves and re-lofting. Derive the two curved segments using the Derive Segments tool and then, on the one that is more complex, use the Curve Reconstruct tool.  Adjust the number of control points and the tolerance until you get a close enough result.  you can get a visible indication of how much the curve is different that the original by selecting the Show Deviation option and zooming in. Once you have the first curve cleaned up, use the identical settings on the other curve and then loft between them.  Note that the new surface will be very slightly different than the original but if it is not critical this will clean it up nicely.  Also, be aware that if this part is connected to other curved parts you may need to be aware of the continuity of the rebuilt surface to the adjacent parts.


  8. I am running a 2010 12 core Mac tower with OS X 10.11 and a flashed 980Ti 6GB video card.  You can get one of these machines online w/32GB and 500GB SSD for about $1750.  I use lots of textures, most work is presented with Shaded Full and I render with Maxwell when required (2-8 Hrs per 4K image).  Very happy with the old hardware, I spend almost no time messing around and wasting time on updates shenanigans.  I use FZ more than 50 hrs a week and this old stuff still works great for me, fingers crossed that it will last awhile longer.  I do have FZ installed on a 2019 5K iMac as well, but the video FPS is slower and jerky on my poly and texture heavy models (±500MB files), something that is not apparent on my tower.


  9. Modo and FZ are great companions.  I use modo for complicated organic subdivision cage modeling (because it has really good soft selection tools) and then bring the object into FZ where I convert to subdivision and then convert into nurbs.  Works really well at creating super complicated organic nurbs shapes that can then be further worked on in FZ with booles etc.  Many parts of the mech were done this way (some are pure FZ hard surface modeling.)  The parts in this model ended up as separate nurbs solids exports for CNC machining.

    970342312_TorsoLow.thumb.jpg.964ff5728f10c937a070138d9149d588.jpg


  10. I've been considering making videos for FZ for a long time now.  I love FZ and I have a lot of tips and tricks I could share.  The things holding me back are that I have zero experience in video production, and poor voice and camera presence lol. (That's not me in the avatar.)

    For now, as an alternative to videos there is a great resource on FZ's website for Tips and Tricks:   http://www.formz.com/fzsite1219/manuals/TnT/index.htm#t=Add_and_fill_out_Title_Block_templates_to_Layout_documents.htm


  11. Search for:

    There is a neat app called TreeSketch3 for iPad.  It was a university project and was really intuitive to use with a simple but comprehensive interface that exports tree models with great results.  The problem is that is very hard to find a copy online to download nowadays.

    There are Shareware tree creation programs like: Treeit , Arbaro,  ngPlant, Powerplant

    Here is a great site for detailed tree (and many other types of) models:   https://archive3d.net/?tag=Tree

    These may require some work, eg. separating into separate meshes, making solids from open meshes, converting polys to solids, etc.

    I use FZ for these tasks to process models and then import them into 3D Coat (sculpting software) for cleaning up, merging, simplifying and prepping for printing.  I finish by re-importing back into FZ for scaling and quality checking before exporting out .stl to print.

    Do you have a photo of the level of detail/shape of foliage you are trying to achieve?  Maybe I can help out, it's a slow weekend.  If you choose a model from archive3d.net maybe I can convert it to a growable stl.

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